Do you want to visit the Sahara desert? Join me in this wonderful adventure into Erg Chigaga, the wildest Moroccan desert.

I am quite sure you have the romanticised idea of a desert made of sand and dunes only. I don’t blame you though. In fact there are dunes and sand, and most of it is placed into the ergs. However, we forgot that most of the desert is made of rocks and plenty of different landscapes.

What is an erg?

We name it erg big areas of sand that look rather like a sea of sand and dunes. From Egypt to Mauritania there are lots of ergs scattered through the Sahara desert. In Morocco there are two main destinations for tourists wanting to visit a desert: Erg Chigaga and Erg Chebbi.

The route

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Note that both starting and ending points are really close to each other. I was in Ait BenHaddou and Skoura was my next destination. However, I wanted so hard to detour and visit erg Chigaga.

I wasn’t looking for a contemplative trip only. I wanted something more immersive. I wanted to interact with locals and get to know their lives. I wanted a Nat Geo moment.

I realised I had to bespoke a tour for me. That’s when I found Emily and Yahya from Wild Morocco and everything changed!

I was finally able to trace the route just the way I wanted to.

The expedition

Yahya picked us up at Ait BenHaddou, where we spent two amazing nights.

Read also Ait BenHaddou – a Moroccan treasure and Ait BenHaddou – where to stay

From the pretty citadel we started the trip towards the desert.

The scenery is out of this world. Moroccan roads are very winding and have a hard-to-beat backdrop.

I did tell Emily we wanted to buy some tradicional carpets without being ripped off. Thus, Yahya lead us to our first stop: Taznakht.

The tiny city has a carpet cooperative with carpets being woven by local women. Many people come as far as Fez to buy an retail them back in big cities.

Carpets are made of goat and dromedary wool. The natural colours are black and white. Other colours are yielded after naturally dying the wool. Poppy leads to red whereas saffron to yellow; indigo to blue; and henna to green.

In this cooperative it is possible to find the five kinds of Moroccan carpets: raratine, tuareg, nomad, berber and the fifth I forgot what’s it called.

All the carpets have numbers attached to them. Each of it is like a signature, linking to the woman that woven the carpet. Once it is sold, Hamid pull it out and the woman receive the payment.

This is Hamid. He hosted and taught us a lot about the different kinds of Moroccan carpets, raw materials, usages and traditional patterns.

From Taznakht we headed to Foum Zgid, the last frontier; the last inhabited city before hitting the desert.

A rocky desert surrounded us. From that point on, there were no other cities to stop by; just rocks and dried riverbeds.

Knowing that most of the Sahara desert is made of rocks, which is contrary to the sandy image we have, is just an information if not lived. By roaming for hours through this kind of landscape one can totally reconstruct his concept of desert.

Madouars (plateau-ish rocky formations very common in this part of the Sahara) along the way.

This whole area has already been a seabed. It is very easy to stumble upon fossils. Take as many pictures as you want to. But listen, don’t take them back with you. Keep them where they do belong, in the desert.

Take a closer look to the photo above. Do you know what it is? It is an early-harvested and dried plant used as toothpick! I saw many being sold in Marrakesh but didn’t stop to ask what they were used for. You pick one twig and do your thing. Moroccans usually leave one of them on the corner of the mouth and bite its butt to release a kind of scent. It’s good for the breath.

Sometimes you spot an oasis and it indicates a well is nearby. Side by side, you can also spot ruins and nomads’ tents.

The landscape keep changing and surprising you. From rocky flats to plateaux. From sandy soil to oasis. From dried lakes to the high dunes at the horizon.

Yahay and his family are from this part of the country. His family used to be nomad and wander through the desert until the 70s, when a reservoir and dam were built close to Ouarzazate. The dam cut the natural Draa river flow drying completely the river in some parts. Nomad people that used to live in the desert had to move to Mhamid. Still, there are people living in the desert relying on artisanal wells only.

Every year around the final quarter the spillways are open releasing a bigger flow of water. The Draa river comes back to life for a while. The Draa valley is a fertile area full of date trees and Zagora is the biggest watermelon producer in Morocco.

After a whole day driving through the south of Morocco we got to the camp to spend two nights and three days.

The sun sets and the temperature drops quickly. It’s time to sit by the campfire and dine by the moonlight.

On the menu: harira soup to start, followed by chicken tagine with saffron, olives and preserved lemons. Tagine is both the name of the dish and the earthenware in which the dish is cooked. Besides the vegetarian version, a tagine is basically a meat piece with vegetables and fruits cooked for over two hours.

Simple and delicious meal by the starry sky.

After dinner, we got by the campfire and enjoyed some traditional berber songs.

We slept in a private tent in the camp. There are no light posts outside. If you need to go out don’t forget to carry a flashlight with you. When it winds all the tent moves with it. Don’t forget to lace the doors, otherwise it might turn into a whip.

The first minutes before closing your eyes may be uncomfortable, since you are either not used to the sound of a tent or sleeping with a door semi-closed. But don’t worry, nothing ever happens.

On the following morning, I woke up early to see the sunrise. It was freezing! In the desert temperature varies a lot. Despite reaching high numbers during the day (beyond 30ºC/86ºF) early in the morning and late night temperature may drop to below 10ºC/50ºF.

First glimpse in the morning.

The water used in the camp comes from a well.

All the tents are made of natural-colour dromedary wool. These woven patterns are traditional.

Our first moments on the desert were marked by gusts of sand in the face and ears. Quite a nice welcome.

Then, Yahya presented us with sheshs (turbants). Bye bye sunburns and sand all over the face.

Shesh it up!

I always wondered why nomad people use turbants. I found out sheshs prevent against sunburn and sand. Also, its spaced weft enables you to see through it even with you face covered. Plus, turbants are used to catch warm objects and even water buckets down a well (just like a rope)

An amazing, traditional and useful gift!

Back to the rocky landscape, we drove reaching a nomad tent. Mister Ali’s tent.

He was born and raised in the desert. He lives with his wife and kids. We were lucky to meet him there since he had just moved from the other side due a rally race. According to him, rally brought too much sand and dirt and forced them to change places. In fact, we spotted some noisy motorcycles.

Mister Ali went to get some fresh water in the well, and his wife brewed us some berber tea. Differently form Moroccan mint tea, berber tea uses acacia sap to thicken and add a resin-texture-sweetness to it. Plus, the sap yields a higher and denser foam.

Guess what? The foam is also called shesh (turbant) and protects tea against insects and dirt. If something falls it is much easier to take it off if stuck on the foam, rather then dipping your finger into the tea.

Acacia is an endemic plant to the region and produces the sap which is incorporated to the tea.

I was so happy at the moment to be part of such a beautiful encounter. True nomad people living their lives. This was not set up for me or other tourists – which by the way were very few.

You could spot simplicity at all corners, just like the true hosting spirit and joy.

Obviously I could not keep the conversation with them because they spoke berber only, and some extent of arabic. I could try my darija (Moroccan arabic) and found out that Mister Ali’s tent had been a present from a Qatari man; and that Ali was 56 years old.

We were there for over 40 minutes. I could feel their happiness hosting us.

At a point, one thing came into my mind. Sometimes I find myself very individualist and stingy. Moroccan culture showed me things are meant to be shared, and people doing their best not expecting something material in return. It also showed me people having not much and giving too much back.

As if this encounter was not enough, Yahya had already set a surprise for us I really didn’t expect.

After a couple of minutes on the road we parked under a tree by a the dry Draa riverbed for a picnic.

Yahya did himself a campfire that looked like a cooktop! He dug, scattered stones and gathered twigs and small branches. Then, he lit the fire and started cooking a sort of mouton tagine with vegetables and spices.

While the main dish was being cooked he brewed some special tea with acacia sap.

This kind of ritual is done when there is a problem and the family must resolve it. Slowly, one cup at a time per person and in three rounds.

On the first round, the tea is bitter and stronger. It is just like a problem that must be faced.

On the second round, the brew is slightly lighter and sweeter. That’s the problem resolution tea, or the passion tea. When members are avidly talking and looking for a solution to solve the problem.

On the third and last round, the tea is lighter and sweeter than before. That’s the time when you celebrate. That’s the “love round”.

And to toast we say b’saha! – to your health.

Right after the ritual, Bashir got a bowl, flour, water and started blending it all. I was curious to se what that would turn into.

Without being noticed, before the tea Bashir had set up a campfire by the riverbed and let it burn for a while. That lately would turn into an oven, in the middle of the desert!

Next, he kneaded the dough and let ir rest. Then, he shaped it into a disc and threw it on the campfire! The high temperature of the sand instantly seared the dough avoiding sand from entering the bread.

After a couple of minutes he took off the loaf from “the oven”, and gently scratched the surface to get rid of the soot. Fresh bread made on the desert, using natural ingredients and sources only.

I gasped.

Still talking about how amazing this people are, this tree behind Bashir has salty leaves and not too far from nowdays, nomad people used it as a substitute for salt. Leaves are also given to dromedaries at strategic stops so they drink enough water to keep up the journey.

After lunch, we crossed the riverbed and went to a ruined earthen house. This house was Yahya’s parents house and he spent part of his childhood here.

Yahya also told me that when his father misses being in the desert he brings him here and cook as well.

Today, only a few walls and memories remain there.

There is no way to add a price tag on that moment. What a day!

I swear I almost cried.

We were still there when a sudden sandstorm and drizzle started. It was weird being in such an arid place with scorching sun shinning upon our heads and, out of the blue, cold and sandy gusts forced us out from there.

That was the first rain of the year!

Back to the camp, the storm had already ceased, but still overcast. We decided to ride dromedaries.

I am against taking part of tourism with animals, however, I made an exception here: few tourists mean few work for those who rely on tourism to survive; plus, few tourists also mean few rides and dromedaries don’t get stressed.

We went on until reaching the tallest dune in erg Chigaga with more than 130m.

Not an easy task going up the dune loaded with camera, lenses, tripod and all the rest.

At the end of the day, Bashir couln’t hide the tiredness in his eyes. We sat at the top of the highest dine in Chigaga desert and gazed to the endless horizon. What an unforgettable moment.

On the following day, we wake up early and started our way back, heading to Mhamid. Do you remember when I previously mentioned that nomad people had to move from the desert after the reservoir had been built? Well, most of them went to Mhamid.

Mhamid is very small, yet fascinating. From the whole trip, it is the city that looks more untouched by time.

We came across many women dressed in traditional clothes. Differently from other parts of the country, here they wear a black veil with colourful and vibrant embroidery showing the tribe they belong to.

Speaking of women, it is extremely difficult to get a photograph in this part of the country.

According to local culture, photography steals part of your soul. Both men and women don’t like being photographed.

Morocco is a good place to test your portrait photography skills. You either have to ask for permission and do your best on persuading or you act like a paparazzi and don’t cause a riot. Both are a challenge.

In Mhamid we went to know the ksar (walled citadel) that gives name to the city. The structure lays there for centuries.

And pause for another cup of tea. This time, inside the ksar. Do you remember when I mentioned different usages for a shesh? Look at the picture and you will find another way to use it.

The common materials of masonry are not widely available in small cities yet. Earthen bricks made of clay and straw are omnipresent.

Local dish made of mouton liver and kidney, with preserved lemon, pepper tomatoes and olives.

Last stop, a pottery cooperative in Tamagroute. The Islamic green colours potterywares are well know throughout Morocco. Nothing like going straight to the source to get the best deal.

As it is famous in Morocco – indeed I spot many being used in the whole country – I thought the city would be vibrant and production plentiful. To my surprise, it was the opposite. The cooperative is very simples and families share earthen offices side by side, no electricity nor running water.

Can you spot the pit in the photograph? That’s where the earth and water are mixed yielding “the chocolate”.

They are very talented. Beautiful pieces are created from scratches.

Inside each family office there is a manual potter’s wheel.

Once the pottery is molded it is set to rest and dry for a week before being fired. Then, it is coated with a glaze – made with a regional mineral – and return to the kiln for a second firing, in which the clay and the glaze are matured achieving a glasslike finish.

The bowl we bought.

After Tamagroute, we continued our journey towards Skoura, one of the biggest palmerals in Morocco.

We caught a cold front that brought the first rain of the year, strong winds, sandstorm and low temperatures to the south of Morocco. Also, this cold front brought snow to the peaks of Atlas range. If we had left Erg Chigaga one day later we might have not reached Skoura since the roads had been closed due snowfall.

These days have been amazing! I discovered a colourful and vibrant desert.

From this experience I carry the laugher of people truly happy to host us; the generosity of those who had not much and offered a lot; the talent of real artists crafting beautiful things with so few resources and tools; the resilience of people that take its income from places we see nothing but difficulties. And still, they genuinely smile at you.

People who cross your way and change your life forever.

An adventure of personal changes.

If you go to Morocco do not forget to visit Erg Chigaga. Wild Morocco can customise a tour only for you and ensure that you have the time of your life in the desert.

Wild Morocco

Do you know why Wild Morocco promote life-changing adventures? Because it all started from a personal change from Emily. The agency is an outcome of a life change movement.

Emily used to work for the the corporate world back in London. She was then fed up with that  and, one day, she decided to do a trekking in Morocco. That’s when she met Yahya, a Moroccan from nomadic family that would later become her business partner.

Specialised in tourism of experiences in the desert of Erg Chigaga, Wild Morocco is definitely a different agency. And that’s what made me pick them among many others.

They make people’s dreams come true offering a unique way to explore the Sahara desert.

Already packed and leaving to Morocco? Get in touch with Emily from Wild Morocco, and say you have heard from them here at Viver a Viagem and get a gandora as a gift!